Beach debris Marwick Head

Marwick Head

Causeway to Brough of Birsay

Earl's Palace

 

Another stunning clear blue-sky day, so we are away early and drive to Marwick Head where we park on a small car park on the coast and walk up towards the Kitchener Memorial (remberance point for the sinking of the Ark Royal in WW2).

We stop half-way up as the birds (fulmar, kittiwake, great skua and puffins in particular) perform aerobatics for us very close by. There are razor bills and guillemots on nests, so we enjoy watching them. Later, back on the road we stop at The Loons RSPB site overlooking reed beds but there is not so much to see. We have lunch and drive on to the village of Birsay and park on the small car park opposite Birsday Island.

Here there is a causeway at low tide, which we cross to the island and explore the Pictish iron age village. It feels a very sad place, later I discover that it was sacked by the Vikings who took it over for themselves. It is another well-preserved settlement that only came to light recently. We walk to the top of the hill to the lighthouse where there are also good views across to the other islands. Back down at the car park. If you plan to visit then check the tide times to be sure that you will be able to walk over to the island.

We walk back into Birsay village and visit Earl’s Palace. Built in 1570 by Earl Robert Stewart, illegitimate son of James V of Scotland. Being illegitimate he had no claim to the throne of Scotland but was oppressive and tyrannical in the way he ruled the people of Orkney. The palace built on the northern shore of the mainland was in a beautiful location and gave him access to all parts of Scotland and Shetland. In its time the house must have been magnificent, the 450-year old ruin was impressive. His son Patrick, whose reputation was worse than his father, built an equally palacial mansion at Kirkwall (Earl’s Palace), the two villians rasing money for their endeavours by credit and extortion. Patrick and his son were finally executed for treason (rebellion against James VI) in Kirkwell in 1615. All a fascinating backdrop to this palace and the one we see later in Kirkwall (tomorrow). Back at the camper we sit in the warm sunshine, have tea and then walk along the cliffs in the evening to the old fishermans' hut and watch the sunset. The causeway is now completely covered and the island inaccessible. 

There are public toilets in Birsay village, about 3/4 mile from the parking at the Brough of Birsay.

A great place to stay overnight, we were fortunate to enjoy a spectacular sunset that we could view from the windows of our motorhome.

Summary of motorhome journey

Pictish Village on island

Sunset Brough of Birsay

Parking Brough of Birsay